When getting a new bike the most popular thing to change first are the exhaust pipes. Because of EPA noise restrictions, most stock bikes come with pipes that are a far cry from emitting the rumble and roar most riders want. If you find yourself in this position, here are some things to consider before you choose which aftermarket exhaust is right for your bike. Unfortunately, there is a LOT of incorrect information floating around out there and hopefully I can clear up some of those misconceptions. The information included here will pertain to V-Twin motorcycles, both American and Metric. The first thing to ask yourself when changing pipes is whether you just want a little more sound out of your exhaust or a lot. Slip-on mufflers will give a nice rumble compared to stock units while still retaining your stock header pipes. Since you’re only replacing the mufflers, they’re also a good bit less expensive than a full exhaust system and require less labor to install. The downside is that you won’t get as much noise as with a full system, and you’ll have pipes that look basically stock. A full exhaust system gives you many more options in getting a custom look, as well as more thunder from the pipes, of course, costing more. Next, and for me the most important, decision is how you want your pipes to affect your motorcycles performance. For the most part, people who ride cruiser type bikes (H-D or metric) aren’t super concerned with maximum performance. They’re usually more concerned with the bike running smoothly and sounding good going down the road. Even so, there are things to consider when selecting an exhaust relative to how it will make your bike perform compared to the stock pipes. For basically any twin cylinder bike, a 2 into 1 exhaust will give the best performance. These types of pipes will have equal length headers coming together into a collector pipe attached to the muffler. I like these pipes because they not only give the best performance, but they have a great deep rumble to them. Companies like Supertrapp and Thunderheader make excellent 2 into 1 pipes and they are the way to go if you want to get the most power out of your engine. Next on the list are what are generally described as equal length duals. These are any kind of pipes where each pipe is the same length as the other. These also give good performance, not quite as good as a 2 into 1, but still a good step up from stock. Just about every exhaust company makes these in one version or other and they’re a good choice as a classic styled pipe. The equal length of the two pipes allows both cylinders to function the same and produce roughly equal power. This type of exhaust is a good choice if the look of a 2 into 1 doesn’t do it for you, but you still want to improve the bike’s performance over stock pipes. On the flip side, I want to mention a couple pipe styles that will actually hurt your performance compared to stock. First off is the classic drag or open pipe. These are readily available and cheap, and a good choice if maximum noise is what you’re after. They are loud and sound pretty good ripping down the road. Unfortunately, all the noise does NOT equate to increased power. Other than at wide open throttle, drag pipes perform worse than bone stock. Since 95% of riders out there have never even hit wide open throttle on their bikes, they should only choose drag pipes if they want something real loud and/or to piss off the neighbors. The other type that saps power from your engine are the long shot style pipes. Because of their length, they cause the exhaust velocity to slow down to a point where it restricts the motor and costs you some horsepower. These pipes are most often chosen for the look they give the bike and if you really like the style, go for it. You will lose a little power, but you’re unlikely to ever notice it by the seat of the pants feel of the bike. That brings me to a pet peeve I have and an important point in this exhaust lesson: If you buy a good set of aftermarket pipes that come with a removable baffle, don’t take the baffle out and just run the pipes open!!!! In the years I spent working on other people’s bikes I’ve seen many do it and it is just plain stupid. I think the root of the problem is that too many riders mistake a baffle with a muffler. A muffler is there to decrease the bike’s exhaust noise level. A baffle is there to organize the exhaust flow. These are two very different things. People too often believe that removing the baffle and making the pipes louder will also increase performance, but it is not so. The best way I can explain the benefit of a baffle over an open pipe is this, if you have a room full of people and there is only one door out of the room, can they get out quicker if they all bum rush the door at the same time or if they roll out in a single file line? Get it? The open pipe actually slows the exhaust flow which limits the engine’s power. A good baffle organizes the exhaust flow and allows it to get out faster which increases performance. Don’t spend $500 on a nice set of pipes only to yank the baffles and get the same effect you can have with a $150 set of drag pipes. And don’t buy into any of the BS of putting so-called ‘torque cones’ in the header pipes after you take the baffles out thinking it will fix everything. The cones help a tiny bit, but they’re essentially the same as putting a band aid on a bullet wound. Don’t waste your money. In conclusion, I’m not an expert in every aspect of motorcycle exhaust systems. What I am is a guy who worked as a professional for 10 years, rode bikes with about every kind of exhaust you can find for a V-Twin motorcycle, and Dyno tuned a couple hundred bikes as well. I’ve seen firsthand how the exhaust you choose can affect your bike’s performance and I recommend taking your time when choosing a set up for your ride. Hopefully the things I’ve discussed will help you with that decision. As always, keep it on two wheels. The Bad Monkey

SWAP MEET SENSIBILITY

The motorcycle swap meet is one of the great traditional events that brings riders together to wheel and deal over parts for their bikes. I’ve got no idea who put on the first one, but they’ve been taking place for decades all over the country. These days, not a lot of ‘swapping’ really takes place. Instead it’s more common to have all types of guys setting up tables filled with all manner of bike parts for sale. In the past, before there were multiple aftermarket parts suppliers, the swap meet was the place to go to find parts for your bike project. You couldn’t just get online and order whatever you needed, so the swap meet was a prime spot for everybody in the area to get together and try to trade parts you had for the parts you needed. Like I said, these days you mainly just ‘swap’ money for parts, but it’s still a good place to hunt for the stuff you need. Fortunately for us, one of the biggest and oldest swap meets around takes place in Charlotte, NC twice a year, in March and November. I’ve been a vendor there for the last few years, and during this time I’ve come up with some do’s and don’ts for a successful swap meet experience.

-- In general, the swap is NOT the place to go for parts for your brand new bike. If you just bought a new bike last month, chances are slim any vendors will have chrome accessories for it. That’s what the dealership is for.

-- Know what you’re after before you get there. A big swap meet like the Charlotte event takes a good bit of time just to walk through once. You’ll save yourself a lot of effort if you know specifically what you want when you get there. Most vendors know what they do and don’t have, so if you can ask them for a specific part it will save you from having to dig through endless bins of parts.

-- If you really need a particular part, get there early the first day. Some guys like to wait until the last hour or so on the last day because they think vendors will sell stuff cheaper. This is sometimes true, but if you’re after a certain part there’s a good chance it will be gone if you wait too long. Try to get there early and make a quick lap around to see if someone has that hard to find part available. The early bird gets the worm, so to speak.

-- Remember it’s a swap meet, not a ‘give away’ meet. This is one of my personal pet peeves. Bargaining on the price of a part is an institution at a swap meet, but there are always a few that don’t quite get it. If I’ve got $50 on a nice Softail fender, I definitely WON’T take $10 for it! Vendors come to the swap meet to sell parts so don’t be an asshole and offer slightly more than nothing for a part. If you’re not sure what they’ll take, just ask. Most guys will gladly tell you the least they can sell the part for. My buddy actually had a guy pick up a part that had $1 on it, and asked if he’d take 80 cents for it!! Don’t be that guy.

-- Keep in mind that there are a lot of cool parts to be had at a swap meet, but you may have to be willing to do a little work to make it fit your bike. That cool 4 ft. twisted sissy bar wasn’t made in 1975 to fit your 2008 Softail. But, that doesn’t mean it couldn’t with a little ingenuity and modification. When you find a nice, vintage chopper part try to use your imagination and you may have just found something to make your bike truly unique.

-- Overall, just keep your eyes and your mind open to whatever you might find. There are almost always some real jewels at any swap meet and you can find them if you’re willing to look. If you don’t even know what size tires are on your bike, you may be better off just enjoying a beer and watching the wet t-shirt contest at your next swap meet. But, if you know a few things about your ride and what you want for it, the swap meet can be a great resource to making your dream bike a reality.

As always, keep it on two wheels.
The Bad Monkey

Motorcycle Wisdom Four wheels move the body. Two wheels move the soul. Life may begin at 30, but it doesn’t get real interesting until about 60 mph. If you wait, all that happens is that you get older. Midnight bugs taste just as bad as noon time bugs. Saddlebags can never hold everything you want, but they CAN hold everything you need. It takes more love to share the saddle than to share a bed. The only good view of a thunderstorm is in your rear view mirror. Don’t ride so late into the night that you sleep through the sunrise. Sometimes it takes a whole tank of fuel before you can think straight. Riding faster than everyone else only guarantees you’ll ride alone. Never hesitate to ride past the last street light at the edge of town. Never do less than forty miles before breakfast. One bike on the road is worth two in the garage. Respect the person who has seen the dark side of motorcycling and lived. Young riders pick a destination and go. Old riders pick a direction and go. A good mechanic will let you watch without charging you for it. Sometimes the fastest way to get there is to stop for the night. Whatever it is, it’s better to do it in the wind. Two-lane blacktop isn’t a highway, it’s an attitude. When you look down the road it seems to never end, but you better believe, it does. Winter is nature’s way to tell you to polish. Motorcycle boots are NOT comfortable for walking. That’s why they are called "motorcycle boots." Sometimes the best communication happens when you are on separate bikes. Good coffee should be indistinguishable from 50 weight motor oil. The best alarm clock is sunshine on chrome. A friend is someone who’ll get out of bed at 2 a. m. to drive his pickup to the middle of nowhere to get you when you’re broken down. Catching a yellow jacket in your shirt at 70 mph can double your vocabulary. If you want to get somewhere before sundown, you can’t stop at every tavern. There’s something ugly about a NEW bike on a trailer. A long ride can clear your mind and restore your faith. If you can’t get it going with bungee cords, wire and electrician’s tape, it’s serious. If you ride like there’s no tomorrow, there won’t be. Bikes parked out front means good food & cold beer inside. There are old riders. And there bold riders. There are NO old, bold riders. Always replace the cheapest parts first. Never race an old Geezer, he’ll have one more gear than you.

 (The following article landed us a mention in VTwin Industry News!)

LONG LIVE LOCAL BIKE SHOPS by RubyRed

If your bike is over 10 years old, most Harley Dealerships ‘prefer’ not to work on it, or so I was told when I needed an emergency repair a few months back. I had a loose chain so I stopped in Columbia where the mechanic looked at the chain as if it were a rare bug, called all the others over to see my dinosaur of a motorcycle then recited some crap he most likely learned in class about the bearing should not be moving (the roller bearings?!?!?!wtf). On my softail I occasionally noticed something dripping and several biker guys told me I needed primary fluid. I have a dry primary...Ladies just because they have a pair & they ride...just find yourself a good mechanic who doesn’t speak to you as if you’re an idiot regarding your motorcycle. I know just enough to be dangerous and I listen to my mechanic, Big Jim & Duster. There are many quailified mechanics in the area shops & dealerships. Find one. Long live the local bike shops..........to me they are like candy stores, if they only sold designer shoes or Gordiva chocolate I wouldn’t need Sandhill or Concord Mills. Go into Hawg Wild in Columbia and just look around at the bins of parts. Terry has EVERYTHING. When talking with Frankie at Iron Horse he was busy getting a traveler back on the road, had pulled a bike off the rack to help a man who would never grace his door again. I was spoiled years ago when Ronnie owned Carolina Biker, life is good when your Brother owns a bike shop. Chris & Curly at C&C in Sumter were quick to get me rolling again several times last summer. Find a shop that treats you well and one you trust and stay put. NOBODY can always get it right, but...they can always make it right. Mechanic hoppers you’re doing yourself an injustice not allowing one shop to ‘know your bike’. Be it your local HD dealership or your smaller hometown shop, have your bike checked out by a reputable mechanic often, especially after she sits-up for the winter (for those of us who ride year round that was not for you!!!) Ride Safe.